Siurana... and further motivational issues

So the weekend in spain was great. Managed a really steep and short 7b+ second try which felt great and had some goes at a really powerful pocket 7c but couldnt do it. Also flashed an easy 7a and nearly an awesome 7a+ So progress I'd say.
However, that was a month ago. Since then I have done nothing and have just been doing lots of eating and drinking. Weight up, motivation down, rain up then down.
Not sure how I am going to crack this one. I really need to be near a wall....

Ardeche and Motivational Issues

Had a great long weekend out with Rene, Virginia and the ankle biters. The campsite was great with the crag just the other side of the river. Nice. Ollie had a mega time with the other kids racing on their bikes and falling over in puddles.
Managed a 7b after a number of goes and tried another one but did not really spend enough time on it. To tell you the truth they both felt desperate.
Rene on the other hand was climbing really well and managed his first 8a the backstabber. Not bad considering he was up at 5am each day with Ben.
That was about over a month ago and since then my motivation has been severely lacking. Have not been to the wall at all. However, I am off to Siurana this weekend so have spend the last 4 days hanging off my fingerboard and drinking protein drinks. I reckon I will weigh a ton by the time I leave. I am going to try an 8a called Anabolica which I tried donkeys years ago. Will let you know how it goes....

Up to sheffield for an arse whupping

Went up to sheff for the day and went to Raven Tor with vickie and Joe. Got a bit of an education in hard bouldering and a harsh dose of reality. Tried a 7a+ route which I was nowhere near. Was totally desperate. Did a font 7a boulder problem which actually felt much easier but there you go.

Vic very nearly did a font 7c which was very impressive (see below)...

Much work yet to do methinks....

UPDATE... Vic just did the 7c (2 days after I went up) which makes her officially nails.

Weight: Just hit 12st 8lb for the first time in about 7 years.

Fantastic day in Dorset

Had a mega day down in Dorset on Sunday with Simon and Canadian Rob (aka Ron Burgundy).

We left at 7am and went to Portland and did a couple of 6as, 6bs and the 6c I failed on last time (felt pretty steady this time).


(6c below)

I was going to get on a 7a or 7a+ to see how I got on but they were all busy so we popped off to Conner Cove for a re-match with the Congar. Ron and I both did it and Simon took a good and a not so good fall. See below:

Ron then put in the effort of the day and having only really been climbing outside a few times and having only lead about VS before today went for it on Freeborn Man (6c). And he made it! I think we were all more scared than him. Was one of the best efforts I have seen, and I am shamed to admit I bottled getting on it. Next time!

Was a fantastic day. Great weather. Great people. Great climbing. Great pub. Bloody long day though, getting back at 12:30am.

Trip to Portland. More bouldering progress

Went down to portland last week and got my arse whipped. I basically have no stamina.
I did however do Reptile Smile (6a+) which was about the best route of this grade i have ever done. It was mega but got very pumped.
I tried on a 6c but failed. Am going back this weekend to see if I can make any further progess. I having been hanging off my finger board all week to practice getting pumped.

Bouldering: Did a v7 at the wall! mad problem, but seeing a cant do a single v6 i would say it is easy v6 at the outside. All the same, progress is apparent and I am feeling stronger all the time. Can finally stick 90deg lock offs on jugs.

Weight: now down to 12st 12pounds. If I lose 3 or 4 more pounds i will have lost my stone!

Further progress - getting stronger

Did two burly 5s. Maybe try a 6 next week?
Weight below 13st now (but not for long i fear)
Maybe do Freeborn Man in a few weeks? Makes me feel sick thinking about it.
Bloody Blogger keeps deleting what I have just typed, hence the brevity.

Progress update

Have now broken into the V5s. I managed 3 on thursday though the fingery type rather than the burly type I should be working on. Went bouldering tuesday and thursday last week and found I was better at the second session so it looks like my body can now handle more frequent training.
I really feel like I am starting to climb now. The boulder problems feel more like real problem rather than just hauling around on jugs. If I can get some of the burly 5s next week I will really feel like I am on my way.
The issue I have is lack of time to actually go cragging. According to the family diary I only have 2 weekends to go climbing. Not sure how I am supposed to climb and 8a like that...
Suprisingly my weight seems to have bottomed out at about 13st 1.5 pounds. It just doesnt seem to be going down any more but this might be because I am starting to put on a lot of new muscle weight.