Tuesday, 29 July 2008

Fantastic day in Dorset

Had a mega day down in Dorset on Sunday with Simon and Canadian Rob (aka Ron Burgundy).

We left at 7am and went to Portland and did a couple of 6as, 6bs and the 6c I failed on last time (felt pretty steady this time).


(6c below)



I was going to get on a 7a or 7a+ to see how I got on but they were all busy so we popped off to Conner Cove for a re-match with the Congar. Ron and I both did it and Simon took a good and a not so good fall. See below:



Ron then put in the effort of the day and having only really been climbing outside a few times and having only lead about VS before today went for it on Freeborn Man (6c). And he made it! I think we were all more scared than him. Was one of the best efforts I have seen, and I am shamed to admit I bottled getting on it. Next time!



Was a fantastic day. Great weather. Great people. Great climbing. Great pub. Bloody long day though, getting back at 12:30am.




Friday, 25 July 2008

Trip to Portland. More bouldering progress

Went down to portland last week and got my arse whipped. I basically have no stamina.
I did however do Reptile Smile (6a+) which was about the best route of this grade i have ever done. It was mega but got very pumped.
I tried on a 6c but failed. Am going back this weekend to see if I can make any further progess. I having been hanging off my finger board all week to practice getting pumped.

Bouldering: Did a v7 at the wall! mad problem, but seeing a cant do a single v6 i would say it is easy v6 at the outside. All the same, progress is apparent and I am feeling stronger all the time. Can finally stick 90deg lock offs on jugs.

Weight: now down to 12st 12pounds. If I lose 3 or 4 more pounds i will have lost my stone!

Sunday, 13 July 2008

Further progress - getting stronger

Did two burly 5s. Maybe try a 6 next week?
Weight below 13st now (but not for long i fear)
Maybe do Freeborn Man in a few weeks? Makes me feel sick thinking about it.
Bloody Blogger keeps deleting what I have just typed, hence the brevity.

Saturday, 5 July 2008

Progress update

Have now broken into the V5s. I managed 3 on thursday though the fingery type rather than the burly type I should be working on. Went bouldering tuesday and thursday last week and found I was better at the second session so it looks like my body can now handle more frequent training.
I really feel like I am starting to climb now. The boulder problems feel more like real problem rather than just hauling around on jugs. If I can get some of the burly 5s next week I will really feel like I am on my way.
The issue I have is lack of time to actually go cragging. According to the family diary I only have 2 weekends to go climbing. Not sure how I am supposed to climb and 8a like that...
Suprisingly my weight seems to have bottomed out at about 13st 1.5 pounds. It just doesnt seem to be going down any more but this might be because I am starting to put on a lot of new muscle weight.